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The latest release of Stéphane Coquillette's NV Brut Premier Cru Carte d'Or is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of crisp yellow orchard fruit, lemon oil, dried white flowers and a delicate hint of praline. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy but youthfully tight-knit core of fruit, ripe but racy acids, a pinpoint mousse and a long, intense finish. Elegant and classy.